Preparing And Fitting A New Nut.

This article deals with installing a new bone nut on a '59 Les Paul Junior. Certainly not for the squeamish! But the techniques described should still be useful to anyone wanting to know a little more on how to properly install a new nut whether it be bone, plastic, graphite or some other appropriate material for most standard guitars. Keep in mind that what follows is only one perspective on getting the job done, is still fairly generalized and deals with a specific piece of work. Having said that, read on...

First, the existing nut is carefully removed and the slot properly cleaned. For more a more detailed description and other pertinent information check out the previous article on properly removing an old nut. In the case of our Les Paul here, the original nut had already been replaced years ago. The existing replacement was in pretty poor shape in that the string slots were crooked, badly worn and the nut itself was poorly cut. Considering the overall condition of the instrument, which was excellent for the year, I had no problem in making the decision to put in a new one. Notice the chip in the faceplate from the previous attempt at replacing the nut? - no problem, a little touchup and it'll be fine.

Our next step is to select a bone blank of suitable dimensions and we'll be ready to get down to work! There's no mystery in using bone for replacing nuts, saddles and the like. It's a readily available, very workable natural product. And relatively cheap!

Put the blank in position and using a sharp pencil, trace the fretboard edges. Then using a small saw rough-cut the nut to fit the neck width leaving just a tad extra for easy handling and future shaping around the fretboard.

Next we'll square up the bottom of the nut to fit the slot. This is a critical step in creating a nut that'll be secure and transfer as much tone as possible. Aim for as precise a fit as you can achieve; the more surface contact the better. Work the surface over some 100 grit sandpaper on your workbench a little at a time 'til it fits just right. And remove any excess material from the back edge as necessary to achieve the right thickness.

Regarding Fender nuts; some have a curved bottom which matches the fretboard radius and that can be tricky to reproduce - but certainly not impossible. Here's a tip, sand the curve into the bottom of the nut over a wooden block with the same radius.

Back to our Les Paul, we can now trim up the sides to match the exact dimensions of the fretboard - nice and neat using fine files or a small belt sander to get the job done. Be patient and check your work often as you hone in on the right fit.

At this point you should a well-fitted bone block ready for final shaping.

Using your sharp pencil again, trace a line along the front face to mark the fretboard contour giving you an idea of how much to knock off the top edge and corners. Trim off the excess material to about 1/8" above the pencil line to achieve the top profile. It should also slope gradually towards the treble side. Carefully smooth the corners down to where they meet the shoulders of the fretboard.

Our next major step will be to glue it in place so now's a good time to fine sand and polish the sides and back.

To secure the nut I prefer to use a couple small drops of Crazy Glue along the bottom and inner edge then carefully and quickly position it in place. It's tricky and requires some experience because it sets fast - and I mean fast. Either you get it right or you don't and have to take it out, clean all the surfaces and try again - usually a good time for profanities.

Warning! Do not get any excess glue on the finish - very nasty. For novices I'd recommend an adhesive, such as good ol' white or yellow glue, which allows a little more time for positioning and still provides a strong bond.

Next we mark the string slots. Many times the old nut can be used as a guide even if it was mangled or broken. Fret wear can also give you an idea as to where the slots should be. Generally I tend to use both and true them up by eye.

For cutting the slots I have a number of slotting files, available through Stewart MacDonald's Guitar Shop Supply, and to start I lightly notch each mark just deep enough to grab a string.

After installing a fresh set of strings the slots are roughed out to the approximate depth. The trick I use here is to make sure the neck is straight and the strings are snug but not at pitch. Notice in the photo at right that there's a visible gap of light underneath the first fret. That gap is my guide to setting the correct height of each string right through to finish. Having installed literally hundreds of nuts, I do it entirely by eye and feel. For the inexperienced I'd suggest taking plenty of time to carefully creep the string slots down bit by bit 'til they seem right to you. Better a little too high than too low at this point.

Once the slots have been roughed, the neck and headstock are masked off for some final trimming and polishing. For this instrument I finished up with 2000 grit sandpaper for more of a sheen which better suited an original appearance.

Nearing the end of the job the strings are brought up to pitch, the neck straightened to accommodate the extra tension and the slots finished cut and smoothed out. Exactly how deep you finally cut the slots is dependent on the players style, string gauge, neck relief and overall setup amongst other factors. The end result should be smooth action, comfort and playability.

Lastly the work area is cleaned up and everything's double checked. Any final tweaking is done and we have our finished product; a well-done bran'-spankin' new nut and one happy customer!

As a footnote, even the most seasoned repairman can occasionally trim a little too much here or there and have to start over. It sucks but it happens. That's the cost of gaining experience and hopefully this article has shed a little light down that path.

Personally, I take it as a great honour to work on vintage instruments and always take the time to ensure the quality of work which they deserve.